Support NeoGAF

[GymWolf]

The moment has arrived, black friday is upon us, my paypal account is 2400 euros richer than yesterday, and i'm buying all the parts for the new build (except the gpu that is not available yet)

But i need some help because i'm pretty noob with this stuff.


I have a couple of questions:

I have decided for ddr5 ram but i'm not sure about 16 vs 32 gb, i'm not gonna change ram for at least 5+ years so i want to know what is more future proof, 16gb at highest frequencies or 32gb but slower (not by that much tho), also what is more important, a lower CL or high frequency? (I only play with my pc, no work\productivity)
I guess that corsair, gskill, kingston and crucial are all good brands for ram right?

For the motherboard i'm probably gonna go with a z690 over the absurdly priced z790 that offer almost zero advantages.
I'm not gonna overclock anything in my pc but SlimySnake told me that i still need a decent mobo because if it is too shitty it can bottleneck even a non-overclocked cpu\gpu.
What is the baseline for a decent moba for a 13600k/high end gpu? I guess for the brand giga/asus/msi\asrock are all ok, hopefully i can go away with no more than 250 euros\dollars (for reference my last moba was 55 euros)

For the psu i'm going with a 1000w plus gold, some advices on good models are appreciated or at least tell what i need to check to know if it is good.

For the ssd, right now there is a good offer for the 980pro and crucial p5 plus, if they are basically the same i go with the crucial that is 20 euros cheaper (i remember someone telling me that samsung is always better) and do i really need an heatsink? (That i can't find on amazon for both models)

Any downside of buying a cpu without integrated gpu to save some money?

For the case i'm going with a fractal design torrent, a big bitch but it should provide all the space needed for a beastly gpu and still have room to breath.

For the cpu cooler i'm probably gonna buy the usual noctua with a big fan, no need for liquid cooling without overclock i guess.


Thanks in advance guys.

 

[TintoConCasera]

Any downside of buying a cpu without integrated gpu to save some money?

Can't think of any. In fact it may have an upside: not having to bother setting which apps run with which GPU.

 

[GymWolf]

Can't think of any. In fact it may have an upside: not having to bother setting which apps run with which GPU.

I was thinking something similar, very rarely some games don't recognise the main gpu and go with the secondary one (bethesda coff coff), so without the secondary one there is no room for confusion.

 

[SlimySnake]

Your mobo should come with a heatsink that you can bolt on to your SSD. My B560 came with two of them so your Z690 should as well. No need for a SSD heatsink.

Whatever case you buy, make sure the front panel is a mesh panel. You dont want to stop airflow from the front. Invest in good 140mm Fans. 3 in the front should do. Scythe is the best but expensive but stay away from Arctic who have really bad humming noise from 800-1300 RPMs that will drive you nuts.

I have a Seasonic PSU which are typically highly rated. 1000 Watts should be good enough.

Buy a UPC. I had my whole PC fried because it was plugged into a surge protector that did nothing. CPU, RAM, mobo all gone. Though a UPC with a 1000 watt battery will be expensive.

Go with 32 GB. I once saw a benchmark that showed you get maybe 1 FPS from a higher speed RAM. Ive heard that buying RAM afterwards, even if you buy the same model can cause issues. So just buy it in one go.

If you have a GPU lying around then no downsides to buying a CPU with no integrated GPU.

 

[GymWolf]

Your mobo should come with a heatsink that you can bolt on to your SSD. My B560 came with two of them so your Z690 should as well. No need for a SSD heatsink.

Whatever case you buy, make sure the front panel is a mesh panel. You dont want to stop airflow from the front. Invest in good 140mm Fans. 3 in the front should do. Scythe is the best but expensive but stay away from Arctic who have really bad humming noise from 800-1300 RPMs that will drive you nuts.

I have a Seasonic PSU which are typically highly rated. 1000 Watts should be good enough.

Buy a UPC. I had my whole PC fried because it was plugged into a surge protector that did nothing. CPU, RAM, mobo all gone. Though a UPC with a 1000 watt battery will be expensive.

Go with 32 GB. I once saw a benchmark that showed you get maybe 1 FPS from a higher speed RAM. Ive heard that buying RAM afterwards, even if you buy the same model can cause issues. So just buy it in one go.

If you have a GPU lying around then no downsides to buying a CPU with no integrated GPU.

For the mobo i was more talking about the phase stuff, like 14+1 or 12+1 i thought this was the important thing to look to now have bottlenecks, but i'm gonna check for heatsinks if they are so important.


The case is one of the best in the market, probably the only part where i don't need to do any investigation, it has like 6 fans already included.

For the psu, i kinda wanted more details on what to look to know if it is good or not, it can't be as easy as just chosing brand and wattage, pretty sure you have to check some other shit

Yeah upc are pricey AF, not sure if i'm gonna buy one tbh.

For the ram, yeah slightly faster ram is probably a waste but isn't the same for 32gb? Probably no game are gonna use more than 16 gb in the next 5 years, a friend of mine told me that the most ram-hog game today use 12 gb top, can someone confirm this?

I don't have gpu hanging around, i'm gonna sell my whole pc to my cousin to get some money back but sure as hell i'm not gonna play anything with the integrated gpu in case the main breaks, i have some standards

 

[AndrewRyan]

Here's my link to the tiered PSU list, not sure where's the updated version: PSU Tier List. I usually go with EVGA gold or platinum efficiency since they come with 10yr warranties.

EDIT: Don't worry about single vs multi rails.

 

[PaintTinJr]

The moment has arrived, black friday is upon us, my paypal account is 2400 euros richer than yesterday, and i'm buying all the parts for the new build (except the gpu that is not available yet)

But i need some help because i'm pretty noob with this stuff.


I have a couple of questions:

I have decided for ddr5 ram but i'm not sure about 16 vs 32 gb, i'm not gonna change ram for at least 5+ years so i want to know what is more future proof, 16gb at highest frequencies or 32gb but slower (not by that much tho), also what is more important, a lower CL or high frequency? (I only play with my pc, no work\productivity)
I guess that corsair, gskill, kingston and crucial are all good brands for ram right?

For the motherboard i'm probably gonna go with a z690 over the absurdly priced z790 that offer almost zero advantages.
I'm not gonna overclock anything in my pc but SlimySnake told me that i still need a decent mobo because if it is too shitty it can bottleneck even a non-overclocked cpu\gpu.
What is the baseline for a decent moba for a 13600k/high end gpu? I guess for the brand giga/asus/msi\asrock are all ok, hopefully i can go away with no more than 250 euros\dollars (for reference my last moba was 55 euros)

For the psu i'm going with a 1000w plus gold, some advices on good models are appreciated or at least tell what i need to check to know if it is good.

For the ssd, right now there is a good offer for the 980pro and crucial p5 plus, if they are basically the same i go with the crucial that is 20 euros cheaper (i remember someone telling me that samsung is always better) and do i really need an heatsink? (That i can't find on amazon for both models)

Any downside of buying a cpu without integrated gpu to save some money?

For the case i'm going with a fractal design torrent, a big bitch but it should provide all the space needed for a beastly gpu and still have room to breath.

For the cpu cooler i'm probably gonna buy the usual noctua with a big fan, no need for liquid cooling without overclock i guess.


Thanks in advance guys.

There's a lot to unpack, but in this age, platinum PSU is a safe bet with 1 Kwatt/hr prices - here in the UK - jumping from £0.27 to £0.34 recently. That extra power factor - 5% IIRC -will pay itself much quicker than before, where people said it wasn't worth it. And I can recommend Fractal PSUs too that match your case, and give an avoid to EVGA ones. My current Fractal ion+ 860p platinum works well and is really well built - bought after two failed 750Watt gold EVGA's that replaced an old working Xmod SLI 600watt Bronze on the same build, that's still working in my nephew's build.

The choice is yours, but six measly performance cores for a £350 CPU isn't a good choice IMO. We've had many halfway-house CPUs from Intel many years ago like the 486DX4 and then the Pentium MMX's to the first gen Pentium 4's and I'm not convinced by Intel's offering now for a long-term build, regardless of benchmarks for last-gen games ATM. I'd probably go AMD - if buying right now, despite being a wait for Intel, every gen person.

Memory wise, first read latency is far more important if you've got a smaller LLC (last line cache) on the CPU(L3 or L2) than a flagship CPU for your board chipset AFAIK. If you are going to max-out the CPU in the end, go with lowest latency for the highest clock in your budget - unless that means something silly like double latency figures.

Motherboards are a crapshoot IMO with chipsets, on Intel I've always straddled the consumer/workstation chipset where possible.

Support-wise after getting shafted by Asus with my old X79 Sabertooth (£250) with inadequate firmware support length and drivers, needing to use a modded firmware for nvme PCIe boot support, there's a consideration in going for the most popular motherboard that fits your choice of CPU from the most reputable brand. The more they've sold of a board, the more support, and longer support it gets because no one really cares if a flagship - low volume sales - board gets support dropped, but the one that sold 20:1 of that board getting support dropped with major bugs will damage their brand - so they put in the work, anyone that suffer an old Soundblaster AWE64 Gold sound card back in the day will probably have a story about this

I've also got a 980 Pro SSD as my C drive and it works well, but like all SSDs it still needs manual trimmed before each intense use to get its listed specs in all situations IMO. In everyday use a cheap SATA3 SSD will be similar in use experience.

 

[Gudji]

I was thinking something similar, very rarely some games don't recognise the main gpu and go with the secondary one (bethesda coff coff), so without the secondary one there is no room for confusion.

Its good for when you have a problem with your GPU and don't have a replacement part (in case you need to use the PC for work). Other than that yeah who cares.

 

[HerjansEagleFeeder]

Wait for an ATX 3.0 PSU
32GB RAM if you want to be on the safe side
Asus should have good mobos for the price

 

[Rentahamster]

The moment has arrived, black friday is upon us, my paypal account is 2400 euros richer than yesterday, and i'm buying all the parts for the new build (except the gpu that is not available yet)

But i need some help because i'm pretty noob with this stuff.

For the psu i'm going with a 1000w plus gold

From what I can tell I don't think you need to go that high. Even if you have a 4090, Nvidia only recommends an 850W PSU.

Any downside of buying a cpu without integrated gpu to save some money?

Not really, but it helps with troubleshooting if the problem is your GPU and you don't have any spares.


Your main goal with the PC is gaming right? What monitor will you have? What resolution and fps are you looking to target? What kind of games will you play? Will you stream? Will you record gameplay?

 

[GymWolf]

There's a lot to unpack, but in this age, platinum PSU is a safe bet with 1 Kwatt/hr prices - here in the UK - jumping from £0.27 to £0.34 recently. That extra power factor - 5% IIRC -will pay itself much quicker than before, where people said it wasn't worth it. And I can recommend Fractal PSUs too that match your case, and give an avoid to EVGA ones. My current Fractal ion+ 860p platinum works well and is really well built - bought after two failed 750Watt gold EVGA's that replaced an old working Xmod SLI 600watt Bronze on the same build, that's still working in my nephew's build.

The choice is yours, but six measly performance cores for a £350 CPU isn't a good choice IMO. We've had many halfway-house CPUs from Intel many years ago like the 486DX4 and then the Pentium MMX's to the first gen Pentium 4's and I'm not convinced by Intel's offering now for a long-term build, regardless of benchmarks for last-gen games ATM. I'd probably go AMD - if buying right now, despite being a wait for Intel, every gen person.

Memory wise, first read latency is far more important if you've got a smaller LLC (last line cache) on the CPU(L3 or L2) than a flagship CPU for your board chipset AFAIK. If you are going to max-out the CPU in the end, go with lowest latency for the highest clock in your budget - unless that means something silly like double latency figures.

Motherboards are a crapshoot IMO with chipsets, on Intel I've always straddled the consumer/workstation chipset where possible.

Support-wise after getting shafted by Asus with my old X79 Sabertooth (£250) with inadequate firmware support length and drivers, needing to use a modded firmware for nvme PCIe boot support, there's a consideration in going for the most popular motherboard that fits your choice of CPU from the most reputable brand. The more they've sold of a board, the more support, and longer support it gets because no one really cares if a flagship - low volume sales - board gets support dropped, but the one that sold 20:1 of that board getting support dropped with major bugs will damage their brand - so they put in the work, anyone that suffer an old Soundblaster AWE64 Gold sound card back in the day will probably have a story about this

I've also got a 980 Pro SSD as my C drive and it works well, but like all SSDs it still needs manual trimmed before each intense use to get its listed specs in all situations IMO. In everyday use a cheap SATA3 SSD will be similar in use experience.

oh shit, thanks for the help but i don't understand like half of the things you said (faaaaar too technical for my limited knowledge)

for the cpu, well i always had intel and from the benchmarks the 13600k seems like a beast that is probably not gonna bottleneck me at 4k60 (not interested in higher framerates).

Ok for the ssd.

Didn't understood much about the ram\moba part (sorry, i'm very noob)

 

[GymWolf]

Wait for an ATX 3.0 PSU
32GB RAM if you want to be on the safe side
Asus should have good mobos for the price

Why if i can ask? i REALLY want to complete the build before the new year start, too many stuff to play on pc.

What is the lowest i can go with the price of a moba? like is 250 euros\dollars already decent? i don't need any fancy feature, just a sturdy moba that doesn't bottleneck my non-overclocked cpu\gpu\ram.

 

[GymWolf]

From what I can tell I don't think you need to go that high. Even if you have a 4090, Nvidia only recommends an 850W PSU.


Not really, but it helps with troubleshooting if the problem is your GPU and you don't have any spares.


Your main goal with the PC is gaming right? What monitor will you have? What resolution and fps are you looking to target? What kind of games will you play? Will you stream? Will you record gameplay?

I'm just buying the pieces, i'm not gonna build the pc by myself.

I'm buying a 1000w to be future proof, i'm probably not gonna keep a gpu for 5 years, i usually change every 2-3 years (and i usually keep my psu for way more than 5 years if i can)

I use my lg c1 as a monitor, connected via hdmi, i only use my pc for gaming\browsing\media player, so basically the only intensive thing is gaming, no streaming, no recording, pretty basic 4k60 gaming.

I play all kind of games except stuff live civilization or starcraft or racing game, open worlds are a big part of what i play.

(not sure why you are asking this stuff, does it change if i play in a monitor or if i play a genre instead of another? don't get me wrong, i like that you are interested, just curious)

 

[PaintTinJr]

oh shit, thanks for the help but i don't understand like half of the things you said (faaaaar too technical for my limited knowledge)

for the cpu, well i always had intel and from the benchmarks the 13600k seems like a beast that is probably not gonna bottleneck me at 4k60 (not interested in higher framerates).

Ok for the ssd.

Didn't understood much about the ram\moba part (sorry, i'm very noob)

My issue with Intel's CPUs is that they've moved the goal posts. Traditionally all CPUs only had performance cores, and this is how AMD CPUs are. It then means the cache levels - assuming a good chip - like L3, L2 and L1 are all scaled according to the price of the chip, and the L3 cache is usually shared, and because they are all symmetrical cores, the shared L3 cache helps lower core workloads, by each used core getting a bigger share.

Intel's new design using aa mix of Performance core(straditional CPU cores) + efficiency cores is a slight of hand in my opinuion and it feels like a trojan horse to kill off new CPUs by their lack of performance core count prematurely. And the efficiency cores can't share the L3 cache symmetrically with the performance cores, either, so in lower core utilisation, you aren't getting a bigger shared cache, any larger than 4-5 year old Intel chips with 6 performance cores, but are paying hundreds for it being the latest gen CPU.

If you really aren't convinced about going the traditional performance CPU route with AMD, then for memory chose the lowest latency memory like OEMS do, Lenovo, HP, Dell, as it is the best solution across the full range of CPUs, reduces power draw and makes the system more stable - versus higher clocked memory - and in areas of stutter - where the CPU cache is overran and can't hide high clocked RAM latency - the lower latency memory will minimise that issue.

Motherboard wise, just check if the manufacturer says the board uses military grade tested components - like capacitors and has additional heatsinks and integrated cooling fans on mobo chipsets/components. If it does then physically it should be a well built mobo, and for components the same is true of PSUs - although biggest fan size is a good yardstick for reliable high wattage PSU IMO, big, slow and quiet rotation is typically more effective.

 

[GymWolf]

Maybe it is easier if i post various parts in discount so you people can tell me if they are good or not, i did the last build like this basically (but in another forum)

so let's start with the ram (don't look at the prices, they are way lower on amazon italy)

Kingston Technology Kingston Fury Beast RGB 32GB 5600MT/s DDR5 CL40 DIMM Desktop Memory (Kit of 2) | Intel XMP 3.0 | Infrared Sync Technology | Overclocking Stability | KF556C40BBAK2-32 at Amazon.com

Shop Amazon for Kingston Technology Kingston Fury Beast RGB 32GB 5600MT/s DDR5 CL40 DIMM Desktop Memory (Kit of 2) | Intel XMP 3.0 | Infrared Sync Technology | Overclocking Stability | KF556C40BBAK2-32 and find millions of items, delivered faster than ever.

www.amazon.com

CORSAIR VENGEANCE DDR5 RAM 32GB (2x16GB) 5600MHz CL36 Intel XMP iCUE Compatible Computer Memory - Black (CMK32GX5M2B5600C36) at Amazon.com

Buy CORSAIR VENGEANCE DDR5 RAM 32GB (2x16GB) 5600MHz CL36 Intel XMP iCUE Compatible Computer Memory - Black (CMK32GX5M2B5600C36): Memory - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

ssd:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RK2SR23/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Amazon.com: Crucial P5 Plus 2TB PCIe Gen4 3D NAND NVMe M.2 Gaming SSD, up to 6600MB/s - CT2000P5PSSD8, Solid State Drive : Video Games

Buy Crucial P5 Plus 2TB PCIe Gen4 3D NAND NVMe M.2 Gaming SSD, up to 6600MB/s - CT2000P5PSSD8, Solid State Drive: Games - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Amazon.com: WD_BLACK 2TB SN850X NVMe Internal Gaming SSD Solid State Drive - Gen4 PCIe, M.2 2280, Up to 7,300 MB/s - WDS200T2X0E : Electronics

Amazon.com: WD_BLACK 2TB SN850X NVMe Internal Gaming SSD Solid State Drive - Gen4 PCIe, M.2 2280, Up to 7,300 MB/s - WDS200T2X0E : Electronics

www.amazon.com

motherboard:

Amazon.com: MSI PRO Z690-A ProSeries Motherboard (ATX, 12th Gen Intel Core, LGA 1700 Socket, DDR5, USB 3.2 Gen 2, PCIe 5, 2.5G LAN, M.2 Slots) : Electronics

Shop Amazon for MSI PRO Z690-A ProSeries Motherboard (ATX, 12th Gen Intel Core, LGA 1700 Socket, DDR5, USB 3.2 Gen 2, PCIe 5, 2.5G LAN, M.2 Slots) and find millions of items, delivered faster than ever.

www.amazon.com

Amazon.com: Gigabyte Z690 UD ATX Motherboard - Supports 12th Gen Intel Core Processors (LGA 1700), DDR5-6000MHz(OC) Memory, 2.5GbE LAN, 1x PCIe 5.0 x16 Slot, 3 x NVMe PCIe 4.0 x4 M.2 & USB 3.2 Gen 2x2 Type-C : Electronics

Shop Amazon for Gigabyte Z690 UD ATX Motherboard - Supports 12th Gen Intel Core Processors (LGA 1700), DDR5-6000MHz(OC) Memory, 2.5GbE LAN, 1x PCIe 5.0 x16 Slot, 3 x NVMe PCIe 4.0 x4 M.2 & USB 3.2 Gen 2x2 Type-C and find millions of items, delivered faster than ever.

www.amazon.com

Amazon.com: ASUS Prime Z690-A LGA 1700(Intel 12th) ATX Motherboard (16+1 DrMOS,PCIe 5.0,DDR5,4X M.2, Intel 2.5 Gb LAN,USB 3.2 Gen 2 Front Panel Type-C,Thunderbolt™ 4,Aura Sync RGB Lighting) : Electronics

Buy ASUS Prime Z690-A LGA 1700(Intel 12th) ATX Motherboard (16+1 DrMOS,PCIe 5.0,DDR5,4X M.2, Intel 2.5 Gb LAN,USB 3.2 Gen 2 Front Panel Type-C,Thunderbolt™ 4,Aura Sync RGB Lighting): Motherboards - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

this is the case

Amazon.com: Fractal Design Torrent Black Solid : Electronics

Shop Amazon for Fractal Design Torrent Black Solid and find millions of items, delivered faster than ever.

www.amazon.com

I found this 850w platinum but i don't know if it is good, not much stuff in discount right now for the 1000w side.

Amazon.com: EVGA Supernova 850 P6, 80 Plus Platinum 850W, Fully Modular, Eco Mode with FDB Fan, 10 Year Warranty, Includes Power ON Self Tester, Compact 140mm Size, Power Supply 220-P6-0850-X1 : Electronics

Buy EVGA Supernova 850 P6, 80 Plus Platinum 850W, Fully Modular, Eco Mode with FDB Fan, 10 Year Warranty, Includes Power ON Self Tester, Compact 140mm Size, Power Supply 220-P6-0850-X1: Internal Power Supplies - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

EVGA Supernova 1000 P3, 80 Plus Platinum 1000W, Fully Modular, Eco Mode with FDB Fan, 10 Year Warranty, Includes Power ON Self Tester, Compact 180mm Size, Power Supply 220-P3-1000-X2: Amazon.de: Computer & Zubehör

EVGA Supernova 1000 P3, 80 Plus Platinum 1000W, Fully Modular, Eco Mode with FDB Fan, 10 Year Warranty, Includes Power ON Self Tester, Compact 180mm Size, Power Supply 220-P3-1000-X2 (EU) - Kostenloser Versand ab 29€. Jetzt bei Amazon.de bestellen!

www.amazon.de

Consider that another 1500+ euros are saved for cpu\cpu cooler\gpu

 

[GymWolf]

My issue with Intel's CPUs is that they've moved the goal posts. Traditionally all CPUs only had performance cores, and this is how AMD CPUs are. It then means the cache levels - assuming a good chip - like L3, L2 and L1 are all scaled according to the price of the chip, and the L3 cache is usually shared, and because they are all symmetrical cores, the shared L3 cache helps lower core workloads, by each used core getting a bigger share.

Intel's new design using aa mix of Performance core(straditional CPU cores) + efficiency cores is a slight of hand in my opinuion and it feels like a trojan horse to kill off new CPUs by their lack of performance core count prematurely. And the efficiency cores can't share the L3 cache symmetrically with the performance cores, either, so in lower core utilisation, you aren't getting a bigger shared cache, any larger than 4-5 year old Intel chips with 6 performance cores, but are paying hundreds for it being the latest gen CPU.

If you really aren't convinced about going the traditional performance CPU route with AMD, then for memory chose the lowest latency memory like OEMS do, Lenovo, HP, Dell, as it is the best solution across the full range of CPUs, reduces power draw and makes the system more stable - versus higher clocked memory - and in areas of stutter - where the CPU cache is overran and can't hide high clocked RAM latency - the lower latency memory will minimise that issue.

Motherboard wise, just check if the manufacturer says the board uses military grade tested components - like capacitors and has additional heatsinks and integrated cooling fans on mobo chipsets/components. If it does then physically it should be a well built mobo, and for components the same is true of PSUs - although biggest fan size is a good yardstick for reliable high wattage PSU IMO, big, slow and quiet rotation is typically more effective.

Take a look at the parts i posted and give me your opinion.

I'm gonna update in the next days when new black friday offers are out.

 

[Rentahamster]

I'm buying a 1000w to be future proof, i'm probably not gonna keep a gpu for 5 years, i usually change every 2-3 years.

Are you buying a 4090? It sounds like you're buying a 4080. I highly doubt you'll be needing a 1000W PSU even 5 years from now. That's overkill for a self described user with "basic" gaming needs.

I play all kind of games except stuff live civilization or starcraft or racing game, open worlds are a big part of what i play.

(not sure why you are asking this stuff, does it change if i play in a monitor or if i play a genre instead of another? (don't get me wrong, i like that you are interested, just curious)

I'm asking this kind of stuff because you want to tailor your hardware to the kind of games you play. For example, some games are more affected by the quality of your CPU than your GPU for the optimal gaming experience. For example, simulation heavy games or games with lots of NPCs that have complex behavior. A game like Civilization really depends on the CPU to process the AI's turns, so a faster CPU makes your turn times faster, which makes the gameplay experience better. You don't play Civilization, but you do play open world games, and a strong CPU helps when there's a complex world to simulate.

Then, there are other games whos gameplay experience scales a lot more with GPU power. These are games that have a lot of eye candy or are recommended to be played at a high resolution, in HDR, at a high FPS, or all of the above. In these cases, you want as strong a GPU as you can afford to be able to hit those resolution and frame rate targets.

To sum up, these kinds of considerations are most useful if you're on a tight budget and are trying to get the most bang for your buck, or if you already have a system and are trying to decide which upgrade will give you the best performance. However, in your case, you seem like you're dead set on getting a kickass CPU and GPU from the beginning, so those considerations don't really matter as much as they do to someone with less budget to spare.

 

[GymWolf]

Are you buying a 4090? It sounds like you're buying a 4080. I highly doubt you'll be needing a 1000W PSU even 5 years from now. That's overkill for a self described user with "basic" gaming needs.


I'm asking this kind of stuff because you want to tailor your hardware to the kind of games you play. For example, some games are more affected by the quality of your CPU than your GPU for the optimal gaming experience. For example, simulation heavy games or games with lots of NPCs that have complex behavior. A game like Civilization really depends on the CPU to process the AI's turns, so a faster CPU makes your turn times faster, which makes the gameplay experience better. You don't play Civilization, but you do play open world games, and a strong CPU helps when there's a complex world to simulate.

Then, there are other games whos gameplay experience scales a lot more with GPU power. These are games that have a lot of eye candy or are recommended to be played at a high resolution, in HDR, at a high FPS, or all of the above. In these cases, you want as strong a GPU as you can afford to be able to hit those resolution and frame rate targets.

To sum up, these kinds of considerations are most useful if you're on a tight budget and are trying to get the most bang for your buck, or if you already have a system and are trying to decide which upgrade will give you the best performance. However, in your case, you seem like you're dead set on getting a kickass CPU and GPU from the beginning, so those considerations don't really matter as much as they do to someone with less budget to spare.

Oh yeah dude, this time i'm going all in with cpu and gpu, the cpu is already set, for the gpu i'm waiting to see the european prices for the amd series 7000, at best i'm gonna land a 7900xtx, at the very worse i'm gonna buy a 3090ti when nvidia is gonna lower the prices, the goal is 4k60 without a sweat (dlss quality at the very "worse"), i don't care about rtx so i'm gonna save a lot of performances to reach the goal even on future games (hopefully)

The doubts are for all the part inbetween cpu and gpu because as a noob they are the hardest to chose because the benefits are more subtle and i don't wanna buy something that is not compatible with the rest so i need an expert eye to assemble the whole thing.

Take a look at the stuff i posted, i even included a 850w just to make you happy

 

[cinnamonandgravy]

ram timings and freq. are both important and affect performance. go with higher freq, provided the timings are not way worse than the lower freq. ram.
higher capacity sticks usually have worse timings than lower capacity sticks (e.g., 32gb sticks will have worse timings than 16gb sticks), plus you need 2 sticks to run dual channel mode. you can even run quad channel w/4 sticks.
adding more sticks at a later date wont cause issues, unless theres an issue with the sticks themselves... done it a million times.
potential issue though: ive read that with ddr5, using multiple sticks can reduce the ram's freq. check your mobo for this.

you dont need an expensive mobo, esp. if you're not OCing. just make sure it supports everything you want, and other people arent reporting reliability issues or bugs.
cpu performance differences between motherboards are negligible.
not sure how this myth of needing a top-tier mobo started.

1000w psu is overkill unless youre getting a 4090, 3090 ti, etc..
then again, maybe future GPUs will be even more power hungry?
a single 12v rail is easier for installation (no need to check that youre powering the gpu with multiple rails).

for ssd, i like having one for os/system, and one for games. this way, background processes aren't affecting your game ssd. (SSDs are so speedy these days, having one for everything is probably good enough)

no need for an integrated GPU if you have a video card. only useful if the video card dies, as you can still get video and troubleshoot the system.

 

[Rentahamster]

The doubts are for all the part inbetween cpu and gpu because as a noob they are the hardest to chose because the benefits are more subtle and i don't wanna buy something that is not compatible with the rest so i need an expert eye to assemble the whole thing.

In that case...

16GB is good enough for modern gaming. I would go 32GB if you like having a lot of browser tabs open or are running other applications in the background too.

Your choice of motherboard is fine. Z790 doesn't matter for your use case.


For sure get an NVME SSD for your boot drive. Samsung or Crucial or Western Digital all make good ones. Go at least 1TB because running out of space sucks.

 

[PaintTinJr]

Maybe it is easier if i post various parts in discount so you people can tell me if they are good or not, i did the last build like this basically (but in another forum)

so let's start with the ram (don't look at the prices, they are way lower on amazon italy)

http://[URL]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B1QQHL42/?tag=neogaf0e-20

[/URL]

http://[URL]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NCNF2ZQ/?tag=neogaf0e-20

[/URL]


ssd:

http://[URL]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RK2SR23/?tag=neogaf0e-20

[/URL]

http://[URL]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B098WKQRDL/?tag=neogaf0e-20

[/URL]

http://[URL]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B7CMZ3QH/?tag=neogaf0e-20

[/URL]

motherboard:

http://[URL]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09KKYS967/?tag=neogaf0e-20

[/URL]

http://[URL]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09KC743SB/?tag=neogaf0e-20

[/URL]

http://[URL]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09J1SD9J2/?tag=neogaf0e-20

[/URL]

this is the case

http://[URL]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08699B69Z/?tag=neogaf0e-20

[/URL]

I found this 850w platinum but i don't know if it is good, not much stuff in discount right now for the 1000w side.

http://[URL]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09CRLXL76/?tag=neogaf0e-20

[/URL]

http://[URL]https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B09M4CQR7F/

[/URL]


Consider that another 1500+ euros are saved for cpu\cpu cooler\gpu

Looking at the memory - for the high framerate low latency needs you will have - you can do better than 12ns for First Word Latency + CAS latency of 36ns

Just using

https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/products/memory/#ff=ddr5&Z=32768002&sort=-cas&page=2

to find the specs of your choice, and find these G.Skill kit with 10ns first word latency and CAS of 28ns is better

https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product...ddr5-5600-cl28-memory-f5-5600j2834f16gx2-rs5k

 

[GymWolf]

Looking at the memory - for the high framerate low latency needs you will have - you can do better than 12ns for First Word Latency + CAS latency of 36ns

Just using

https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/products/memory/#ff=ddr5&Z=32768002&sort=-cas&page=2

to find the specs of your choice, and find these G.Skill kit with 10ns first word latency and CAS of 28ns is better

https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product...ddr5-5600-cl28-memory-f5-5600j2834f16gx2-rs5k

I'm gonna play at 60 fps max, not interested in higher framerate.

I posted what is in offer for the black friday, i'm trying to save something on the other parts because gpu and cpu are gonna be full price without any discount.

The model you say is like 150 euros over the price of what i posted, hardly worth the difference i think.

 

[PaintTinJr]

I'm gonna play at 60 fps max, not interested in higher framerate.

I posted what is in offer for the black friday, i'm trying to save something on the other parts because gpu and cpu are gonna be full price without any discount.

The model you say is like 150 euros over the price of what i posted, hardly worth the difference i think.

I can't see your relative pricing. The part was only £209 for the 32GB kit, which for highest performance RAM that will help with frame-rate lows, even targeting 60fps, isn't unreasonable IMO. If you want better value, stick with DDR4.

 

[GymWolf]

I can't see your relative pricing. The part was only £209 for the 32GB kit, which for highest performance RAM that will help with frame-rate lows, even targeting 60fps, isn't unreasonable IMO. If you want better value, stick with DDR4.

I don't buy from uk because i have to pay additional taxes and i can't find that model lower than 300+++ euros in other stores, still searching tho.
Edit: if you open that link the real price is 340 pounds...not sure why it shows 209.



On the bright side, i just bought the ssd, in the end i thought that 1tb is more than enough and this one has the heatsink

Amazon.com: WD_BLACK 1TB SN850X NVMe Internal Gaming SSD Solid State Drive with Heatsink - Works with Playstation 5, Gen4 PCIe, M.2 2280, Up to 7,300 MB/s - WDS100T2XHE : Electronics

Amazon.com: WD_BLACK 1TB SN850X NVMe Internal Gaming SSD Solid State Drive with Heatsink - Works with Playstation 5, Gen4 PCIe, M.2 2280, Up to 7,300 MB/s - WDS100T2XHE : Electronics

www.amazon.com

 

[SHA]

List what you're targeting , I for example target gta 6 and the elder scrolls 6 , end of story , numbers and features are almost fake and doesn't hold any meaning in it , don't rely on that , you can't understand contents before you see it with your eyes.

 

[GymWolf]

List what you're targeting , I for example target gta 6 and the elder scrolls 6 , end of story , numbers and features are almost fake and doesn't hold any meaning in it , don't rely on that , you can't understand contents before you see it with your eyes.

I play too many games to target a specific one, i want to play everything at 4k60 for at least 2-3 years, of course i'm gonna do bigger sacrifices with the heavier games like gta6 or starfield (disabling rtx should be more than enough)

Not sure what do you mean with the other things you said...

 

[PaintTinJr]

I don't buy from uk because i have to pay additional taxes and i can't find that model lower than 300+++ euros in other stores, still searching tho.
Also if you open that link the real price is 340 pounds...not sure why it shows 209.



On the bright side, i just bought the ssd, in the end i thought that 1tb is more than enough and this one has the heatsink

http://[URL][URL]Https://www.amazon...refix=Western+digital+850,aps,262&sr=8-1&th=1

[/URL][/URL]

It goes in my Amazon basket at the £209.57, so there seems to be price adjusting shenanigans, which sadly makes helping with specific parts suggestions hit and miss, if prices for you are going to be wildly different.

That SSD, choice looks good with its quality factory fitted heatsink.
I did have a look at the platinum PSU by EVGA, and if it reviews well and is a good price it should work well with its high-end build, at similar pricing I would probably favour the corsair 1000HX PSU instead, only because EVGA's 10year warranty might not exist if they exit the parts market or wrap up in less than that time frame. Both have slightly smaller fans at 135mm compared to the 140mm custom fan in the 860p fractal ion+ but it is a good sign that it isn't just EVGA using the 135mm, and Corsair's top of line PSU is the same. If going for less than 1000, the fractal 860p is better engineered IMO to last, because running cooler with a larger fan puts everything under less stress.

From your motherboard choices, any should do the job, so price is likely the main issue, but if the support page of each board shows firmware revisions with supported CPUs, and memory I would probably lean more towards the board that has less firmware revisions that supports the newest speced memory and CPUs, as you are less likely to get a board that has older firmware that might not support your CPU and RAM out of the box, and then need to use a computer shop that has supported spares CPU and RAM to upgrade the bios firmware. I haven't checked, but the Asus might have the feature to update firmware without CPU or RAM installed like their older boards sometimes did.

 

[SHA]

I play too many games to target a specific one, i want to play everything at 4k60 for at least 2-3 years, of course i'm gonna do bigger sacrifices with the heavier games like gta6 or starfield (disabling rtx should be more than enough)

Not sure what do you mean with the other things you said...

Gta 6 will release within 2 years if you're really interested , the safest route is to go with the best cpu and memory plus the storage , the gpu is replaceable , don't worry about it cause you wouldn't need the best gpu at that time.

 

[GymWolf]

It goes in my Amazon basket at the £209.57, so there seems to be price adjusting shenanigans, which sadly makes helping with specific parts suggestions hit and miss, if prices for you are going to be wildly different.

That SSD, choice looks good with its quality factory fitted heatsink.
I did have a look at the platinum PSU by EVGA, and if it reviews well and is a good price it should work well with its high-end build, at similar pricing I would probably favour the corsair 1000HX PSU instead, only because EVGA's 10year warranty might not exist if they exit the parts market or wrap up in less than that time frame. Both have slightly smaller fans at 135mm compared to the 140mm custom fan in the 860p fractal ion+ but it is a good sign that it isn't just EVGA using the 135mm, and Corsair's top of line PSU is the same. If going for less than 1000, the fractal 860p is better engineered IMO to last, because running cooler with a larger fan puts everything under less stress.

From your motherboard choices, any should do the job, so price is likely the main issue, but if the support page of each board shows firmware revisions with supported CPUs, and memory I would probably lean more towards the board that has less firmware revisions that supports the newest speced memory and CPUs, as you are less likely to get a board that has older firmware that might not support your CPU and RAM out of the box, and then need to use a computer shop that has supported spares CPU and RAM to upgrade the bios firmware. I haven't checked, but the Asus might have the feature to update firmware without CPU or RAM installed like their older boards sometimes did.

Like i said, i'm trying to buy stuff that is in discount for the black friday to save money for cpu and gpu that are fully priced, the evga p6 is 163 euros right now, the ax850 is 200 euros.

There is a corsair rm850x plus gold for a very very good price (123 euros) and i heard only good things about this one.

 

[GymWolf]

Gta 6 will release within 2 years if you're really interested , the safest route is to go with the best cpu and memory plus the storage , the gpu is replaceable , don't worry about it cause you wouldn't need the best gpu at that time.

As you can read in my posts, i'm already going with almost all high end stuff.

 

[HerjansEagleFeeder]

Why if i can ask? i REALLY want to complete the build before the new year start, too many stuff to play on pc.

Well I'm assuming you want to keep the PSU for as long as possible, and we simply can't say how widespread the new connectors for GPU will be in the future. Imagine wanting to change your GPU in two years time, but the only models available require a 12/16-Pin connector. You'd want a native cable coupled with the right PSU for that job.

 

[PaintTinJr]

Like i said, i'm trying to buy stuff that is in discount for the black friday to save money for cpu and gpu that are fully priced, the evga p6 is 163 euros right now, the ax850 is 200 euros.

There is a corsair rm850x plus gold for a very very good price (123 euros) and i heard only good things about this one.

Yeah. sorry I can't see your comparative pricing, and I was going by memory that all the PSU - including my own Fractal 860p I paid £108 - were all competitively priced within £10-30 of each other.

Price of electric definitely would rule out anything less than platinum IMHO, with trends that it will rise still. In fact, if the EVGA is cheapest, it will be fine, you'll probably never get close to a power draw level that will overly stretch it to test its reliability, and will no doubt replace it long before it might fail - other than getting unlucky with two bad PSUs that Minecraft on 12 Core Xeon killed, as was my experience of EVGA's PSUs, it should be a fine choice.

 

[SHA]

As you can read in my posts, i'm already going with almost all high end stuff.

I understand but historically speaking demanding games really sucks when you don't have the best choice , you need also to count for other factors, not just performance , what if the next big game can't run at ease with your current build ? , you may find it unnecessary but it may bother everyone at that time.

 

[GymWolf]

Well I'm assuming you want to keep the PSU for as long as possible, and we simply can't say how widespread the new connectors for GPU will be in the future. Imagine wanting to change your GPU in two years time, but the only models available require a 12/16-Pin connector. You'd want a native cable coupled with the right PSU for that job.

Do you think nvidia and amd are gonna be that stupid to completely cut off like 95% of players without an atx 3.0 psu??

I mean i get what you say, but the few models of atx 3.0 avaialble are pricey as fuck, the wait for more models at cheaper prices is gonna be loooong.

I think i'm just gonna risk with a classic psu.

 

[GymWolf]

I understand but historically speaking demanding games really sucks when you don't have the best choice , you need also to count for other factors, not just performance , what if the next big game can't run at ease with your current build ? , you may find it unnecessary but it may bother everyone at that time.

I mean, more than buying all top parts and spending like 2500 euros not sure what else i should do to be more future proof...

If future games are not gonna run well on a 2500 euros build it probably gonna be the game\devs fault, i can only spend that much...

 

[GymWolf]

Yeah. sorry I can't see your comparative pricing, and I was going by memory that all the PSU - including my own Fractal 860p I paid £108 - were all competitively priced within £10-30 of each other.

Price of electric definitely would rule out anything less than platinum IMHO, with trends that it will rise still. In fact, if the EVGA is cheapest, it will be fine, you'll probably never get close to a power draw level that will overly stretch it to test its reliability, and will no doubt replace it long before it might fail - other than getting unlucky with two bad PSUs that Minecraft on 12 Core Xeon killed, as was my experience of EVGA's PSUs, it should be a fine choice.

What would you buy? The p6 platinum or the corsair rm850x that from the feedback online seems like the better product (but more power hungry).

Consider that i played with an xfx 550w bronze for the past 6-7 years, so both gold or platinum would be a big jump already.

 

[PaintTinJr]

What would you buy? The p6 platinum or the corsair that from the feedback online seems like the better product (but more power hungry).

Consider that i played with a xfx 550w bronze forcthe past 6-7 years, so gold or platinum it would be a big jump already.

I would check the gamernexus reviews for each - if they did them. If they say the p6 doesn't hit that efficiency in real world tests - with them getting a PSU at retail, which I think my friend said was their methodology - and the corsair is to specification or better in real world testing, then go with that instead - would be my advice - although ideally all PC PSUs would now be platinum performance IMO.

 

[GymWolf]

I would check the gamernexus reviews for each - if they did them. If they say the p6 doesn't hit that efficiency in real world tests - with them getting a PSU at retail, which I think my friend said was their methodology - and the corsair is to specification or better in real world testing, then go with that instead - would be my advice - although ideally all PC PSUs would now be platinum performance IMO.

From what i found on the internet, the difference between gold and platinum is like 2%.

I was expecting more, i may go with the corsair gold and save money to put on the moba or ram...

 

[SHA]

I mean, more than buying all top parts and spending like 2500 euros not sure what else i should do to be more future proof...

If future games are not gonna run well on a 2500 euros build it probably gonna be the game\devs fault, i can only spend that much...

The gpu has always been in jeopardy , you can't future proof it , It's always been someone else fault , not them , the hardware you own it , then it's your fault , this is common sense in the PC industry since the 80s.

 

[HerjansEagleFeeder]

Do you think nvidia and amd are gonna be that stupid to completely cut off like 95% of players without an atx 3.0 psu??

I mean i get what you say, but the few models of atx 3.0 avaialble are pricey as fuck, the wait for more models at cheaper prices is gonna be loooong.

I think i'm just gonna risk with a classic psu.

Well you can't get a 4080 or 4090 without one of these new connectors today. Adapters are not what you ideally want then. AMD will follow at some point, my guess is 8000 series.

 

[PaintTinJr]

From what i found on the internet, the difference between gold and platinum is like 2%.

I was expecting more, i may go with the corsair gold and save money to put on the moba or ram...

I'm not saying it is or isn't going to be only 2%, but you could compare the efficiency graphs (from review) of the PSUs you are considering and make a reasonable estimate of the TDP you'll see when the PC isn't gaming (maybe less than 100watts), and when it is gaming(,anything from 350-600 depending on GPU and game I suspect) to assess what the PSUs' efficiencies will likely mean in terms of additional power use/cost per year.

I agree though that focusing on the mobo and memory as a higher priority than going better than Corsair gold PSU with your money makes more sense.

 

[adamosmaki]

Well integrated graphics can come handy in case you need to troubleshoot your pc and the GPU is a potential problem. They are also handy if you sell your GPU and you want something to get by for a few days till you get a new one . Other than that there is no reason to use them
As for 16 vs 32 gb for now you wont see a difference but considering your budget and that you are gonna be on the same pc for 5 years you might as well get 32gb now instead in 2-3 years
Also for power supply going overboard is not always the best think. Most PSUs reach their most efficient state between 40-80% so if you get a pc that 90% of the time will only be using 20-30% of the psu is kinda of a waste. For PSU recommendations check gamersnexus

 

[Rentahamster]

I understand but historically speaking demanding games really sucks when you don't have the best choice , you need also to count for other factors, not just performance , what if the next big game can't run at ease with your current build ? , you may find it unnecessary but it may bother everyone at that time.

What you said is true, but that hardly applies in OP's case. He's putting in all high tier stuff. What you said is for people who only have a budget of $800-ish or less.

 

[GymWolf]

Well integrated graphics can come handy in case you need to troubleshoot your pc and the GPU is a potential problem. They are also handy if you sell your GPU and you want something to get by for a few days till you get a new one . Other than that there is no reason to use them
As for 16 vs 32 gb for now you wont see a difference but considering your budget and that you are gonna be on the same pc for 5 years you might as well get 32gb now instead in 2-3 years
Also for power supply going overboard is not always the best think. Most PSUs reach their most efficient state between 40-80% so if you get a pc that 90% of the time will only be using 20-30% of the psu is kinda of a waste. For PSU recommendations check gamersnexus

I think i'm going with the corsair rmx850w, i save some money and it is Tier A in the infamous psu tier list so an excellent product.

Edit: bought it.

 

[GymWolf]

Is one of these cooler good enough for a non-overclocked 13600k:

Amazon.com: DEEPCOOL Assassin III CPU Cooler/7 Heatpipes/Premium Twin-Tower/Dual 140mm with PWM : Electronics

Shop Amazon for DEEPCOOL Assassin III CPU Cooler/7 Heatpipes/Premium Twin-Tower/Dual 140mm with PWM and find millions of items, delivered faster than ever.

www.amazon.com

Amazon.com: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 250W TDP CPU Cooler | Includes Two Silent Wings PWM Fans | Intel 1700 1200 2066 1150 1151 1155 2011 Square ILM | AMD4 AMD5 | Black | BK022 : Electronics

Buy be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 250W TDP CPU Cooler | Includes Two Silent Wings PWM Fans | Intel 1700 1200 2066 1150 1151 1155 2011 Square ILM | AMD4 AMD5 | Black | BK022: CPU Cooling Fans - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Or do i NEED a noctua nh-d15 that is 30-40 euros pricier? (Or some other model you can advise)

 

[PaintTinJr]

Is one of these cooler good enough for a non-overclocked 13600k:

http://[URL][URL]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W7X29NZ/?tag=neogaf0e-20

[/URL][/URL]

http://[URL][URL]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BY6F8D9/?tag=neogaf0e-20

[/URL][/URL]


Or do i NEED a noctua nh-d15 that is 30-40 euros pricier? (Or some other model you can advise)

IIRC you said you weren't building the system yourself, so that makes the advice slightly different, as you'll need the CPU and cooler to last the system - presumably - so you want the best of both in your budget you are prepared to live with.

Both of those coolers and lesser ones will do the job; especially if you aren't overclocking, and the only real potential issues are does it fit your case the way you want? does it force you to buy low profile memory modules (with low profile heatsinks)? and most importantly does it lower temps - to keep the CPU TDP lower? and to keep the CPU that cool, does it do it quietly enough at the bottom end - when you might set the motherboard to limit CPU fans speed and reduce overall ambient temps in response to CPU temp rise by increasing the case fans?

My brother built my nephew's build a few years back with me giving him remote guidance, and as his desire to get more value from his budget was his top priority, I advised him to save £30 -40 on the cooler, and buy a default Intel heatsink/cooler for under £10 to fit to his K model CPU - think it was a 10600K he was able to afford with the extra £30-40 saved IIRC and just told him he wouldn't be overclocking until he replaced that with a real cooler. 2years on of gaming and he's not bothered to replace it and is letting his case fans keep his case cool and quiet enough using the custom mobo fan settings.

 

[GymWolf]

IIRC you said you weren't building the system yourself, so that makes the advice slightly different, as you'll need the CPU and cooler to last the system - presumably - so you want the best of both in your budget you are prepared to live with.

Both of those coolers and lesser ones will do the job; especially if you aren't overclocking, and the only real potential issues are does it fit your case the way you want? does it force you to buy low profile memory modules (with low profile heatsinks)? and most importantly does it lower temps - to keep the CPU TDP lower? and to keep the CPU that cool, does it do it quietly enough at the bottom end - when you might set the motherboard to limit CPU fans speed and reduce overall ambient temps in response to CPU temp rise by increasing the case fans?

My brother built my nephew's build a few years back with me giving him remote guidance, and as his desire to get more value from his budget was his top priority, I advised him to save £30 -40 on the cooler, and buy a default Intel heatsink/cooler for under £10 to fit to his K model CPU - think it was a 10600K he was able to afford with the extra £30-40 saved IIRC and just told him he wouldn't be overclocking until he replaced that with a real cooler. 2years on of gaming and he's not bothered to replace it and is letting his case fans keep his case cool and quiet enough using the custom mobo fan settings.

I watched some tests so i know they are good for my cpu temp wise, especially because i'm 100% never gonna overclock anything, i was more asking for advices on the brand or if someone had bad experiences with the same product, if they are trustworthy\sturdy or not.

I bought a gigantic case to not have space problems, i don't care how big they are and i don't give a damn about noises, when i play or watch a movie the fan noise never bothered me.

People told me that a liquid cooler would be a much better choice but i fear leakage and as i said, noises and lack of space are not a problem at all.

Just for the record this is the one liquid cooler i was keeping an eye on as an option

Amazon.com: ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 280 - Multi Compatible All-in-One CPU AIO Water Cooler, Compatible with Intel & AMD, Efficient PWM Controlled Pump, Fan Speed: 200-1700 RPM, LGA1700 Compatible - Black : Electronics

Shop Amazon for ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 280 - Multi Compatible All-in-One CPU AIO Water Cooler, Compatible with Intel & AMD, Efficient PWM Controlled Pump, Fan Speed: 200-1700 RPM, LGA1700 Compatible - Black and find millions of items, delivered faster than ever.

www.amazon.com

 

[PaintTinJr]

I watched some tests so i know they are good for my cpu temp wise, especially because i'm 100% never gonna overclock anything, i was more asking for advices on the brand, if they are trustworthy\sturdy or not.

I bought a gigantic case to not have space problems, i don't care how big they are and i don't give a damn about noises, when i play or watch a movie the fan noise never bothered me.

People told me that a liquid cooler would be a much better choice but i fear leakage and as i said, noises and lack of space are not a problem at all.

The space issue is that ram slots sit next to the CPU socket and the clearance of the cooler above the slots with a module in can be less than 2mm - even with low profile ram like my eight 4gb modules with near zero clearance from my monster sized Sycthe Ninja 3 cooler that I've had for years.

Be Quiet is a reputable brand I recognise, but ultimately the designs of the cooler between brands aren't going to be making huge differences like +20%, unless they have far more heatsink size and vastly more effective fans. If the stock cooler that comes with the no K edition of the CPU will work fine, then any of these are massive overkill for you. So picking should be quite easy if just going by price

 

[GymWolf]

The space issue is that ram slots sit next to the CPU socket and the clearance of the cooler above the slots with a module in can be less than 2mm - even with low profile ram like my eight 4gb modules with near zero clearance from my monster sized Sycthe Ninja 3 cooler that I've had for years.

Be Quiet is a reputable brand I recognise, but ultimately the designs of the cooler between brands aren't going to be making huge differences like +20%, unless they have far more heatsink size and vastly more effective fans. If the stock cooler that comes with the no K edition of the CPU will work fine, then any of these are massive overkill for you. So picking should be quite easy if just going by price

Well, sure as hell i'm not gonna leave the stock cooler and i didn't wanted to go too cheap for something that i have to keep for at least 4-5 years.

But yeah i'm probabyl gonna be okay even with a 40 dollars cooler, i just wanted to hear some feedback here on gaf.

 

[SHA]

I play too many games to target a specific one, i want to play everything at 4k60 for at least 2-3 years, of course i'm gonna do bigger sacrifices with the heavier games like gta6 or starfield (disabling rtx should be more than enough)

Not sure what do you mean with the other things you said...

The stuff you usually find in reviews sites like gamernexus , j2c , anandteck ; power draw , temperature , oc , chassis material and its headroom for airflow , the psu , cpu cooler , the number of memory sticks and its size and timing , you can't discount all that for just 5 main components , your place also matters, j2c talked about this topic recently.